• “长城时光”公益网站欢迎您的到来,我的朋友!
  • “长城时光”上所有的内容围绕长城和长城文化展开,期待您的投稿!
  • "长城时光"得到了成大林、杨奕、威廉·林赛、董耀会、杨理、王一舰、张俊、张依萌等诸多长辈和朋友的支持和鼓励,我们由衷感谢!
  • 如果您觉得这个网站不错,欢迎您常来坐坐!网站竭诚为您服务!
  • 欢迎加入我们!辛苦联系bnusimply@126.com

在莫斯科看到“中国长城”!

长城随笔 wu 919次浏览 0个评论 扫描二维码

莫斯科长城图.webp

After my first Genghis Khan Wall expedition in August 2011, my team returned to the Mongolian capital city of Ulaanbaatar. For a couple of days we could shower off the gobi dust, eat and drink in cafes and soak up some of the local culture. In the city’s main art gallery was a temporary exhibition of works that depicted the Mongolian landscape, people and culture by an artist and explorer whom I’d never heard of — a Russian by the name of Nicholas Roerich.

His painting were colorful, striking, simple and stimulating. One in particular showed a Central Asian landscape, with a lone traveller within sight of mountain abode. As I stood in front of the painting I found myself thinking what hopes and fears, anxieties and apprehensions that lonely traveller, a foreigner in a distant land, a local from somewhere who wasn’t a local anymore. The sky looked dark and foreboding, bad weather was blowing in, dusk was falling. It would soon be dark, cold. The traveler would surely be hungry, tired. And what reception might he receive from someone, a family, lord of the village? What apprehensions might they have at the sight of this approaching stranger?

I loved the painting, and others alongside it. I noted down the artists name. Miraculously, once back in Beijing, I found the note, and looked him up, discovering he was a culture vulture, more than a traveller, more of a archeologist and anthropologist and explorer, who traveled on foot and horseback and upon camels with his wife and their sons, across central Asia, China and as far south as India.

The chance of making further connections with this artist and his story materialized once our trip to Moscow came into being. Roerich was Russian, born in St. Petersburg, and a much collected artist. One auctioneer in London had sold one of his paintings for a staggering 7.9 million pounds, a record sale for a work of a Russian artist!

With great excitement we made our way to the Roerich Museum in central Moscow. To my utter astonishment I was ‘greeted’ in the courtyard of the museum with a poster showing Roerich’s painting of the Great Wall! 

Inside, several halls were stacked with Roerich’s colorful and naturally uplifting artworks. Here were places I’d been, seen, imagined, and wished to visit, in colours that inspired. Display cases also showed that Roerich was an enthusiastic collector of all kind of things that he found, saw or purchased, all in order to learn more about the foreign lands he passed through. He wrote: ‘Culture is the accumulation of highest bliss, highest beauty, highest knowledge.’

海报.webp

ox of crayons

An added and unexpected bonus of the visit to this museum was the collection of expedition equipment used by Nicholas Roerich and his wife Helena and their sons, who in turn travelled and explored the Central Asian region extensively. Things that caught my eye were a portable coffee maker, a tiny camping stove and solid-fuel pellets, a bulletproof vest, a shovel, compass, knapsack, billycan, camp cutlery, typewriter, maps, binoculars, whistle, axe and tinned powdered coffee by Nescafé.

I didn’t see the painting that had made such an impression upon me in Mongolia, but as I sat down and absorbed a wider perspective of Nicholas Roerich’s life, works and philosophy, I realize why that painting attracted me. I many ways I could see myself in the frame. I have, for much of my life, been a traveller, far from home, tired, hungry, lonely and uncertain about many things unknown on the rough roads ahead, but always harbouring hope an faith that someone in the village, where light shone in a room, where smoke puffed out of chimney, was there and willing to open the door, invite me in, give me a drink and a place to rest.

威廉与长城图.webp

2011年8月,我第一次在蒙古国境内探险“成吉思汗边墙”。当我的探险队员们回到首都乌兰巴托的时候,有好几天,我们都在试图冲洗掉浑身上下的泥土和沙尘。我们在咖啡店里享受可口的饭菜和诱人的饮品,浸泡在当地丰饶的文化之中。

我参观了乌兰巴托美术馆里举办的临时个人画展。展出的绘画都是蒙古国的风光景色和人物肖像。这位画家我从未听说过。他是一位俄罗斯人,名叫尼古拉斯.罗厄烈冶(1874-1947)。

他的绘画很有特点:色彩鲜亮、线条简洁,但给人以一种激励和鼓舞。

有一幅画我记忆犹新。画的是在蒙古国的山丘景色中,有那么一个孤独的、渺小的旅行者。我站在这幅画前,仔细端详着幅画,揣摩着这位旅行者:在这块地域辽阔、异国他乡的土地上,这个旅行者有多么寂寞和孤独!他一定满怀希望、又充满焦虑和忧思,不时间还带着某种恐惧。现在已经接近黄昏,天空渐渐暗淡下来,天气也开始变坏。不多久将会漆黑一团,阴冷交加。这位孤独的人一定已经是饥寒交迫了。什么样的人家会接纳他?是一个普通劳动者,还是个当地的有钱人?他们又会如何看待这位不速之客?

我很喜欢这幅作品,并记下画家的名字。我回到北京后,还专门查找了他的信息。我发现,他不仅是一位画家,他还是位文化使者、考古学家、人类学家和探险家。他步行、骑马、骑骆驼,与他妻子和两个儿子一道,多次在中亚,包括中国和印度一带游历。

这次我们来莫斯科旅行,偶然又与这位画家“邂逅”。

罗厄烈冶先生生于圣彼得堡,是一个多产的画家。在英国伦敦的一次拍卖会上,他的一幅画就竞拍到七百九十万英镑——对俄罗斯画家来说绝对是创出历史纪录。

带着兴奋的心情,我们来到位于莫斯科市中心的N.罗厄烈冶博物馆。欢迎我们到来的是一份惊喜:在博物馆的庭院里,一张海报上面竟是这位画家画的中国长城!

这正是我期待已久的地方,这里有实物,有色彩,也有精神。

展柜里展出的各种物件,显示这位画家,也是一位热情的收藏家。每到一地,他总会收集能够找到的、买到的对他了解当地的人文地理有用一切的一切。他这样写道:“文化就是乐、美和知识的高度积累。“

还有一个意想不到的收获。我看到了画家本人和妻子海伦娜以及他们的两个儿子在中亚不断的旅行途中使用过的野外用具。这些东西吸引我眼球:便携式咖啡机、便携式打字机、双筒望远镜、防弹背心、地图、指南针、营地炉、固体酒精、露营餐具、铁铲、斧头、背包、口哨,甚至还有雀巢出品的速溶咖啡!

在蒙古国参观罗厄烈冶的个展时,我并没有像在莫斯科的感觉如此震撼,这里是画家的祖国!

我甚至静静地坐下来,妄图吸纳尼古拉斯.罗厄烈冶整个人生、全部作品和哲学思想。我意识到,之所以他和他的画那么吸引我,是因为在很多地方,我可以在这面“镜子”里,看到我自己。

我生活的很大一部分时间,就是远离家乡的旅途中。我时常处于这种状态:疲惫不堪、饥饿难耐、孤单只影、不知未来。我寄希望于什么地方的村庄里,有灯光的屋子,有袅袅炊烟,而且那里面的主人,愿意敞开大门,接纳我……

(本文作者:威廉·林赛,图文均来自“林赛一家子”)


长城时光, 版权所有丨如未注明 , 均为原创丨本网站采用BY-NC-SA协议进行授权 , 转载请注明在莫斯科看到“中国长城”!
喜欢 (1)or分享 (0)

您必须 登录 才能发表评论!